Fashion, Identity, Image

About the Author\nPaul Jobling is Visiting Professor, MA Fashion Studies, Parsons New School, Paris, France. He is the author of Man Appeal (Berg, 2005).\nPhilippa Nesbitt graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. Her MA thesis explores the emergence and impact of gender non-conformativity in global fashion modelling and media. She is currently digital curator for Revue magazine in France and starts funded doctoral research on fashion and disability at Ryerson University, Toronto in Fall 2020.\nAngelene Wong, graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. She is a trained dancer and her postgraduate thesis focusses on ideas of embodiment, space and time through the relationship of dance to fashion in productions such as Jean-Paul Gaultier's 'Fashion Freak Show' and Hussein Chalayan's 'Gravity Fatigue'.\nHow has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020.\nJobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarède's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.