Snow and Ice Techniques

The impact of the ice revolution on the greater sport of mountaineering has been considerable. The ascent of vertical frozen waterfalls in Canada and the United States has added The Ice Climbing Game to Lito Tejada Flores' Classic concept of games climbers play. The impact has, however, been far greater than the development of a specialized area of expertise; the standard of mixed climbing has risen, alpine ascents are much faster and alpine Himalayan climbing has also fully utilised the new technology. Debates rage fiercely on the new ethics of ice climbing which the technology has raised, and climbers now focus on speed of ascent as their measure of technical competence and superiority over their peers. Although some of us may shake our heads in dismay or incomprehension at the cutting edge of the sport, it is the nature of men to compete and strive for greater accomplishments.