Betty Groff's Country goodness cookbook

Betty Groff is a practiced restaurateur and cookbook author. With her husband, Abe, 47, she presides over Groff's Farm, a landmark of country dining in Lancaster County, Pa., some 70 miles northwest of Philadelphia. The restaurant, just outside Mount Joy (pop. 5,128), is definitely off the beaten track (the fourth farm on the left on Pinker-ton Road). Still, food fanciers from all over wend their way to the 231-year-old stone farmhouse, attracted by the hearty Pennsylvania Dutch fare, including such specialties as chicken Stoltzfus (named for an Amish friend and made of chicken chunks in cream sauce over pastry diamonds) and shoofly pie (see recipe, page 78). Only fresh fruits and vegetables, just picked in season or home-canned, grace the tables. Soups, relishes, cakes, ice cream-even the fruit wines used in cooking-are homemade. Declares noted authority James Beard, a longtime regular: "I think of Groff's Farm as a wonderful example of how great American cooking can be."