A thought-provoking examination of the challenging and sometimes sinister roles that fashion has played in the history of cinema When Marlene Dietrich makes her entrance in Alfred Hitchcock’s Stage Fright, the Dior dress she wears immediately draws the viewer’s attention—not because of its designer label, but owing to the dramatic blood stains ruining its stylish surface. Fashion in film goes far beyond glamorous costumes on glamorous stars, as Jonathan Faiers proves in Dressing Dangerously, a pioneering study of the “cinematic negative wardrobe” revealed in mainstream movies. The book emphasizes how problematic, even shocking depictions of dress, until now largely overlooked, play pivotal roles in shaping film narrative. 
Integrating fashion theory, film analysis, and literature, the insightful text investigates the ways cinema influences fashion and, conversely, how fashion speaks to film. The book also reveals how clothing, imbued with its own symbolic meaning, can be read much like a text; when used to provocative effect, for example, in films such as Villain,Leave Her to Heaven, and Casino, the stars’ costumes as well as their actions elicit a complex set of emotional responses. Dressing Dangerously brings together a wealth of illustrations, from glossy publicity photos featuring immaculately dressed stars to film stills that capture "dangerously" fashionable moments.

Dressing Dangerously: Dysfunctional Fashion in Film

Arts & Photography

Faiers, Jonathan

Graphic Design

Yale University Press

<div>A groundbreaking, informative, and thought-provoking&nbsp;exploration of fur's fashionable and controversial history The first and only book of its kind, Fur: A Sensitive History looks at the impact of fur on society, politics, and, of course, fashion. This material has a long, complex, and rich history, culminating in recent and ongoing anti-fur debates. Jonathan Faiers discusses how fur--long praised for its warmth, softness, and connotation of status--became so controversial, at the center of campaigns against animal cruelty and the movement toward ethical fashion. At the same time, fake fur now faces a backlash of its own, given the environmental impact of its manufacture and its links to fast fashion. &nbsp; Divided into five sections--dedicated to hair, pelt, coat, skin, and fleece--the book surveys not only the politics of fur but also its centrality to western fashion, the tactile pleasure it gives, and its use in literature, art, and film. This thoughtfully reasoned, eloquently written, and spectacularly illustrated examination of fur is both timely and essential, filling a gap in fashion scholarship and appealing to a broad audience.</div>

Fur: A Sensitive History

The first major study to explore the relationship between clothing made for survival in the most inhospitable environments on earth and beyond, and the high fashion it has inspired
Today― from haute couture to ready- to- wear― parkas, puffer coats, and backpacks, as well as garments made of neoprene and Mylar are everywhere. But the roots of these ubiquitous items of dress and cutting- edge textiles are rarely acknowledged or understood. Inspired by the so-called “heroic era” of polar navigation (1890– 1922), extreme mountain climbing, deep sea exploration, and journeys to outer space, Expedition explores how garments made for the most inhospitable environments on earth and beyond have inspired more than sixty years of fantastical, otherworldly fashions.
Lavishly illustrated, this publication features approximately 150 color photographs. The images include high fashion magazine editorials by Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, and others; museum objects from the permanent collections of The Museum at FIT and the American Museum of Natural History; and unpublished photographs of early expeditions in the archives of the Explorer’s Club in New York. 150 illustrations in color and black and white

Expedition: Fashion from the Extreme

Mears, Patricia

Way, Elizabeth

Flint, Lacey

Pickman, Sarah

Elia, Ariele

Thames&Hudson

Product Description 
An outstanding and comprehensive contribution to the history of Tartan. – TelegraphFeaturing new insights and an additional chapter on masculinities, this updated edition of Tartan revitalizes discussions about the fabric's traditional, sentimental Highland origins and its deliberate subversion by contemporary designers. Tartan's history has made it uniquely capable of expressing both conformity and subversion, tradition and innovation. Through positioning tartan within broader philosophical, political and cultural contexts, from the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement, to the fabric's influence on Westwood and McQueen and a generation of Japanese designers such as Watanabe and Takahashi, Jonathan Faiers traces tartan's development from clanship to contemporary fashion and its enormous domestic and global impact.Beautifully illustrated and weaving together a story out of history, art, music, film and fashion, Tartan demonstrates that this most traditional and radical fabric has become one of extraordinary versatility and far-reaching appeal. 
 Review 
“An outstanding and comprehensive contribution to the history of Tartan.” ―Telegraph“Intriguing study ... mixes the serious with the saucy.” ―International Herald Tribune“A rare treat; a readable, enjoyable academic text.” ―Selvedge“Stunning!” ―Janice Forsyth, BBC Scotland“A great alternative to the numerous clan reference guides that abound in tourist traps up and down the country.” ―Scotsman Magazine“Comprehensive ... wonderfully eclectic.” ―New Humanist“This is a fascinating and thought-provoking book that is guaranteed to make the reader consider tartan from new perspectives.” ―Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture“Highly attractive ... fascinating ... A treasure trove of Tartan.” ―Military Illustrated“Faiers explores the cultural significance and surrounding connotations of tartan while conducting a comprehensive deconstruction of the fabric and its place and development throughout history from clanship to contemporary fashion.” ―Ali McCulloch, Precious McBane“Having read the book one becomes aware of tartan's extraordinary versatility, its possibilities as both a radical and traditional material, and the local and global contexts within which it operates.” ―Juliette MacDonald, Textile“This is a huge text book that would be great for anyone wanting to learn everything there is to know on the subject.” ―Cut Out and Keep blog“A great variety of illustrations of tartan fabrics as they appear in period portraits, fashion designers' collections, products, cartoons, stage, and film complement this thoroughly researched, annotated volume that should interest experts and general readers alike. Recommended.” ―CHOICE“A beautifully illustrated story ... history, art, music, film and fashion, Tartan contains everything you ever wanted to know about the most radical and traditional of fabrics.” ―Crafts“The book of choice for intelligent fashionistas this winter.” ―Selvedge“Tartan is not only for dedicated aficionados, but for everyone curious about its chequered past. Faiers unravels a wonderfully engaging and kaleidoscopic view of this high-impact Scottish cloth, and surprises us by unravelling how tartan continues to inspire and permeate contemporary visual cultures.” ―Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada“This beautifully illustrated book is a fantastic resource for anyone wishing to understand Tartan's traditional and rebellious history, from its Scottish roots to its radical reinterpretation by designers including McQueen, Westwood, and Comme des Garçons. Tartan is a must-have book for any fashion or textile student.” ―Andrew Groves, University of Westminster, UK“Faiers offers the most in-depth exploration of tartan's entanglements with fashion and popular culture to date, teasing out the contradictions in its multifarious iterations of clan, cause, and contention. Tartan unravels the myths but the rom

Tartan: Revised and Updated (Textiles That Changed the World, 1)

Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Tartan has colonized the world. The flexibility of its design and the traditionalism of its symbolism - as well as the travels of the Scots - have taken the fabric around the globe. Traditionally the visual sign of clanship and district, tartan was popularized outside Scotland by the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria's royal endorsement. Hollywood has continued to sustain the romantic fictions of tartan from Brigadoon to Braveheart. At the same time, designers such as Westwood and McQueen have deliberately subverted the traditional and historical associations of the fabric, as have contemporary artists such as Matthew Barney. Post-punk, tartan now turns up in the most surprising places, influencing the conceptual clothing of a generation of Japanese designers such as Watanabe and Takahashi, the stage costumes of Outkast's Andre 3000 and contemporary interior design. Beautifully illustrated and weaving together a story out of history, art, music, film and fashion, Tartan contains everything you ever wanted to know about this most radical and most traditional of fabrics.

Tartan (Textiles That Changed the World)

Reference

Berg Publishers

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