Small Boat Building

This historic book may have numerous typos, missing text, images, or index. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. 1916. Not illustrated. Excerpt: ... CHAPTER VIII PLANKING PERHAPS planking presents more difficulties to the amateur than any other part of the construction, but there is no mystery about it and once the principle is grasped it should be a comparatively easy matter to cover a frame so that it is both strong and watertight. The principal difficulty for the inexperienced is to proportion and run the " strakes," as the planks are called, so that the material is used to good advantage and the seams show fair and "sweet" from all points of view. A planking job may look well when viewed from the side, but an end view, which foreshortens the planks, may show unfair curves, reverse curves, and other defects. I strongly advise the amateur to examine critically the work of professionals when much information will be gained. There are many different methods of planking, but only four will be considered as they no doubt fully cover all amateur requirements. These are 108 carvel, ribband carvel, clinker, and double planking. See Plate 8. Carvel or smooth planking is the most common form and may be used for all types of boats, providing the planking is not too thin to hold the caulking (%" is about the minimum). The planks are fitted edge to edge and the seams caulked with cotton or oakum to make them watertight. Ribband Carvel, also called batten seam, is just like carvel planking with the addition of a ribband or batten fitted over the seams on the inside to which the planks are riveted. Thin planking may be used and a strong job obtained the same as with clinker planking but it has the advantage of being smooth on the outside and if well done requires no caulking. Clinker or lap strake, which is principally used for small boats, has the edges of the planks lapped, like the clapboards of a house, and...