Pencils, a sketchbook, cake, yards of stolen ribbon, thimbles, snuff boxes, a picture of a lover, two live ducks: these are just some of the fascinating things carried by women and girls in their tie-on pockets, an essential accessory throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. This first book-length study of the tie-on pocket combines materiality and gender to provide new insight into the social history of women’s everyday lives—from duchesses and country gentry to prostitutes and washerwomen—and explore their consumption practices, work, sociability, mobility, privacy, and identity. The authors draw on an unprecedented study of surviving pockets in museums and private collections to identify their materials, techniques, and decoration; their use is investigated through sources as diverse as criminal trials, letters, diaries, inventories, novels, and advertisements. Richly illustrated with paintings, satirical prints, and photographs of artifacts in detail, this innovative book reveals the unexpected story of these deeply evocative and personal objects.

The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives, 1660–1900

Arts & Photography

Burman, Barbara

Fennetaux, Ariane

Graphic Design

Yale University Press

<div>A New York Times Best Art Book of 2019 "A riveting book . . . few stones are left unturned."--Roberta Smith's "Top Art Books of 2019," The New York Times This fascinating and enlightening study of the tie-on pocket combines materiality and gender to provide new insight into the social history of women's everyday lives--from duchesses and country gentry to prostitutes and washerwomen--and to explore their consumption practices, sociability, mobility, privacy, and identity.&nbsp;A wealth of evidence reveals unexpected facets of the past, bringing women's stories into intimate focus. &nbsp; "What particularly interests Burman and Fennetaux is the way in which women of all classes have historically used these tie-on pockets as a supplementary body part to help them negotiate their way through a world that was not built to suit them."--Kathryn Hughes,&nbsp;The Guardian &nbsp; &nbsp; "A brilliant book."--Ulinka Rublack, Times Literary Supplement</div>

The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660–1900

• A high quality facsimile reproduction\n• Essays written by leading specialists in economic history, textile techniques, the global cotton trade, technology transfer, and fashion\n• Many appendices: Translation of the manuscript in English, Technical analysis of the samples, Glossary, Indexes, etc.\n• An indispensable reference work for the study of the history of textiles and fashion on the eve of the Industrial Revolution\nIn 1751, John Holker (1719-1786), an English textile manufacturer exiled in France, undertook an industrial espionage mission to England to collect samples of English textiles on behalf of the French king, Louis XV. On his return, the samples were assembled in a manuscript volume, which is now preserved at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. Each sample in this album is accompanied by a handwritten technical description specifying the quality of the fabric, its price, its dimensions and the manufacturing processes. This album is famous for preserving the oldest identifiable samples of jean fabric. Completely bilingual, the book includes a facsimile reproduction of the album, accompanied by a transcription of its handwritten text and a dozen essays. The essays, written by academics, curators and specialists from France, Britain and North America, explore the album from various angles: the globalization of commerce, the slave trade, industrial espionage, economic rivalry between France and England, the taste for cotton and its role in the history of fashion, etc. The book demonstrates the importance of centuries-old links between France and the United Kingdom and is an indispensable work of reference for the history of textiles. Text in English and French.

The Holker Album: Textile Samples and Industrial Espionage in the 18th Century

Styles, John

Fashion

Musee des Arts Decoratif

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